The Voyage of the Strapless, Rowing Grand Canyon

18 March 2013 and 22 days on -- Trip Leader: Josh Case

This is not a trip report, but a trip story, and it is my story so it is mostly about... me.

Planning

The start of this trip was meeting Josh and his hiking friends in White Creek many years ago when he was just completing going around Powell Plateau and I was headed from Shinumo Creek to Bright Angel. In the years after we had several more encounters at Hikers Symposium, History Symposium and many exchanges of comments on the Grand Canyon Hikers group. I never imagined that this contact would lead to an invite to join Josh on the Colorado River and to row it all the way, but it did.

Along the years there was a series of developments that made this possible, but of all the factors that make it possible none is more essential than believing you can do it. It took some work to convince me after I made the commitment to go and expressed that I enjoyed rowing the crazy waters... which I had done, but to a very limited extent. This included 2 times on AzRA trips where I rowed whenever the guides would let me, and this was mostly flat water with a few minor rapids, such as Sixtymile, and learning to keep away from rocks in the current (more about that). Building a little more experience I rowed most of the San Juan with my buddy Chris, and this was the first time I had to manage a real rapid with real obstacles. Josh recruited Dave Nally as our Qualified Boatman and when I met Dave in Flagstaff he was very encouraging that I should do this. And so I was convinced.

Another factor that made this possible was overcoming the reality of my very poor natural vision. Most of my life with thick lenses between me and the world out there. And hiking in the Grand Canyon not even wanting to imagine what I would face if my glasses were lost or damaged. So in 2000 I decided to have the laser thing done. This did not go as expected. I went from a minus 15 to about a plus 2 -- very nearsighted to significantly farsighted, with some unpleasant flares and doubles. I didn't hike at all for about a year and I was not sure that I would again. But I did connect with the group on egroups/yahoo, Grand Canyon Hikers listgroup and Grand Canyon Hikers and Backpackers Assn. The first time I went below the rim again was a service project to Indian Garden with a dayhike loop down the old Miners Bypass to Phantom Ranch, and a bonus Junior Ranger patch. Next, I did a few solo hikes, dayhiking the Old North Kaibab, and doing Bright Angel, Phantom Canyon and the Tonto route to Cottonwood camp. After that I started hiking seriously again in 2003 with Alessio when I recorded my feelings about this in the Clear Creek arch site logbook. Over time, my vision improved enough that I can do alot without glasses, and my eyes got better tolerating air and sun. I still wear sunglasses or clear lenses almost always. By the time I got the pull to join Josh's trip I was no longer concerned about any limitations. If I was still dependent on my old lenses or contacts I could not have assumed the responsibility for getting a boat through big water. I had thought about the possibility of doing something significant like a full paddle trip if the laser thing had gone better, but that was 10 years too far past to be real to me. Things can change.

Statistics and Equipment List

Research

I started researching what I would need, and purchased a new life vest designed for whitewater and a watermans knife to go with it, an NRS rafter shirt and neoprene gloves, 2 new cameras with a waterproof box, and the Martin/Whitis spiral river-runner map. I also got a fleece union suit for warmth because winter weather on the river can be bad, and from reading Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon the message was that being over 50 and in the cold Colorado river water could be fatal. By luck the weather was kind to us, but for 22 days out there, if you were to realize you should have got something that you did not, there is no help for it.

Also, I spent considerable time reviewing YouTube river runs, and this more than just about any other single factor made a huge-huge difference. The year before, Chris and I had gone to Hance Rapid and crossed over to Asbestos Canyon and back. On the return leg we watched several boats take the left run at Hance and I was impressed how easy that looked. Having seen that run added confidence that I could do it and in part this sucked me into the commitment to row. Then Red Canyon had a major flash and blocked the left run. Uh-Oh.

As launch-day approached it came down to 6 rapids that I was truly and deeply concerned about. These are:

House Rock -- where the boulder washout from Rider Canyon in this narrow section pushes very swift current into a curving left wall with two really big waves in the tail reflecting off a big rock at the end of the rapid river-left. If you run the center current you will almost for sure go into the holes with an even chance to stay rightside up. Many don't.

Hance -- with no left run makes this famously technical with a long-established standard run. Enter right very close to the top center boulder which is the extreme left of the tongue, get below the top boulder into the quiet pool known as the Duck Pond and stay left all the way, and look out for the Whale at the bottom. I did ride the right-side with an AzRA guide once, but it was bumpy and we took alot of water.

Crystal -- is infamous for famously good reason and has more fatal incidents and rescues associated than any other. Crystal keeps changing over the years and the Big Hole is not quite as big, but the rock island that divides the lower half is always bigger. ABC -- Alive Below Crystal. Last time I was here in the AzRA paddle-boat the basic idea was: paddle as hard as you can for the right shore; you will never get there but you will get past the Big Hole and be ABC.

Lava -- is so-so big and so-so fast and the infamously famous Ledge Hole will not just flip a boat, it can take it apart and spit out the pieces. Lava is mostly about the setup and once you are committed there really not much to be done to affect the outcome. This makes it scary in anticipation but relatively simple in execution. So actually this was not the one I thought about most.

Bedrock -- where there is really literally more rock than there is water. Most of the water goes left. Go left and a flip is almost a certainty. Bedrock is such a challenge that there is real possibility that if the channel gets any tighter some of the larger tour boats may not be able to pass here.

Killer Fang -- because the name tells most of the story, and the other part of the story is that this is most likely the place where Glen and Bessie met their fate.

Trip Log

Day 0 -- Travel from Flagstaff and boat assembly, organize the group and then row briefly downstream to the river camp, then a group dinner at Marble Canyon Lodge. Part of the mystery of the trip is that there are no specific rider assignments except for family and couples. Josh and Amy, Jeremy and Shannon, Dave and Dorothy, Stephanie and Brooke. So Chris and I need to collect some riders and my riders turn out to be Jamie and Jackie, and the intro starts out with something like "Doug, how much experience do you have?" Me: "That's a good question." Because the answer is: some, but not a whole lot. The truth is that I am not foolish or inexperienced, but the knowledge and experience I do have is somewhat less than sufficient to assure success. My own estimation in advance is that my odds of completing the trip rightside up all the way would be about 50/50 -- which, unfortunately turns out to be accurate. Chris F riders are SteveO and Chris A. Completing the set is Bo Beck from Saint George solo in a small cataraft; Bo is another contact from the internet and a very strong and experienced outdoorsman, former rescue guy, and outdoor gear shop owner/operator.

Day 1 -- This AM prepare breakfast, get the Ranger talk, pack and check-in and launch. The initial photo that I got Jamie to take of me at the oars going through Paria Riffle is smiling and joyful, and the first day was definitely alot of fun. We did run some serious rapids by reputation but there was nothing very striking about it. We made good miles and stopped at HotNaNa where I had been before with AzRA. Josh broke an oar on the way, which was somewhat concerning because each boat gets 2 spares, and 1 of Josh's spares was also bent, so he had used up his reserve the first day out. Not all the boats had the same oarlock system either. Dave and Stephanie and Jeremy had "pins and clips" where Josh and Chris and myself had opted for the more modern "oar-rite" system. Both systems keep the blades aligned to bite on a stroke without the need for any wrist action.

Each boat rotates a meal preparation cycle, a system recommended by our outfitter Moenkopi Riverworks. Jamie and Jackie and I get the first night which is a challenge for me since my home-cooking responsibilities have declined over the years to less than nil, and not a factor I had thought about much. Fortunately, Jamie and Jackie are real pros at food service with Xanterra, but on the other side, could detract from the fun-vacation aspect for them. But we do manage.

Day 2 -- HotNaNa is a setup for HouseRock Rapid almost immediately downriver and Dave's take on it is -- why scout something when looking at it will just raise anxious feelings without leading to any important new knowledge or adjustment. So, this is it, this is the real test if I had any idea what I was getting into or not. Run order is Dave, Stephanie, Doug, Josh, Jeremy, Bo, Chris. I did have very specific ideas about what to do based on my video research: basically hug the right shoreline as close a possible without grounding the boat. It turns out that the flow we are on is so low there is not much water rightside of the waves, but the plan totally works, and with the boat angled slightly to the right at end a couple oar strokes surfs away from the big waves and alongside the tail. Everyone makes it but Jeremy gets a little too much of the big waves and is dumped for a brief swim. All boats upright is good. The next mile to just past Boulder Narrows is familiar territory as Chris an I hiked the right shoreline and out a few years ago. Classic stop at North Canyon pool, and then the Roaring Twenties. Fast water and no really big rapids but big enough to take oars out of hand and can dump a boat if you get sideways. All said, really a workout with the constant attention needed sometimes crowding out the fun.

Two lessons for the day bought by inexperience. The lead boats pause to regroup but there is no eddy and the current along the shore pushes me into Bo's little cataraft where I sandwich and bang him against the rocks. The day ends at Shinumo Wash which is a target for a layover and canyoneering. I was really close to missing the pull-in for this one going almost out the bottom of the eddy even if it is a really big one with a long beach shoreline. Once I got the boat moving upriver a tiny amount on a few strokes I knew I had it and would not spoil the plan. Very much concerned about the earlier incident I make a point to apologize to Bo, and very much relieved that he seems unconcerned. But wow, tired.

Day 3 -- Layover for canyoneering and I am completely committed to the boat, and I need the rest. The group goes canyoneering and has a great time. I had some ideas about going up to Silver Groto to meet them which turns out to be more of a challenge than expected so I get only into the slot and past the first pool. By the time Josh joins me in the lead of the canyoneering team it's too cold for me to stay. Good rest day, not much else to say. It was good that I had been here and done the slot with Chris and Jeremy and Shannon last year so there was no loss in not going now.

Day 4 -- The next section of the river is familiar ground from hiking. Rapid at Fence Fault, South Canyon beach, Vaseys Paradise, Redwall Cavern, Nautaloid Canyon, Bridge of Sighs. The river is closely confined between the Redwall cliffs and very swift except for the large eddy at Redwall Cavern, where it's not that easy to follow the indistinct downriver eddy fence into the landing. I truly enjoy the challenge of finding the current in the flat water sections sometimes more than the excitement of the rapids. Short day stopping at Nautaloid.

Day 5 -- Stop at Fern Glen and then get blown into a sandbar trying to get out. Easy water to more familiar hiking territory at President Harding, Eminence Break, South Canyon (no stop). When the channel opens out downriver from South Canyon there are some surprising bends and rock-bars near the 50-Mile break. Late day upcanyon breeze was trying to blow me into the landing at Little Nankoweap, then track the inside of the big curve around Nankoweap Delta and our camp destination, which we are very relieved to find we have secured for the next layover. Josh does a great job of wrangling steaks for dinner.

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