Circumambulation of Powell Plateau - concluded

Hakatai to Shinumo Creek

The old mining trail ("Walthenburg Trail"?) out of Hakatai is somewhere further up Hakatai Canyon. The obvious exit route goes up the drainage from the mining camp. A big chockstone requires passing packs and some climbing skill; the key move is to reach around way up for a good right handhold (thanks James). The top becomes increasingly steep and loose, going up the right-hand fork and then continuing left to get up above a band of muav cliff. Page 44 of GCT-III notes the steepness of this route and refers to a "good trail near the north end," and there is another way without any climbing at all, but much-much longer and most of the old trail is eradicated (see Waltenburg Trail). The route joins the remains of Walthenburg Trail at this point. Although there is an option to contour toward the river around the point at the Tonto level this is much slower travel.

Continue east along the ledge above the cliff looking for traces of the old trail. Descend toward the pink rock formation on the face of the cliff that marks the route into Burro Canyon. Similar to the route into Hakatai, the trail follows a ledge around the point, and then disappears into a slide. Climbing down over the boulders, the traces pick up again going back to the right to a point overlooking Burro Canyon and then down an easy slope to the bed. Continue down the creekbed (no water) and locate the exit trail just below the narrow spot. At the crest, the way is indistinct but seems to continue around the point. The steep ravine that this ramp runs into can be descended through some loose stuff to Shinumo Creek, but George says the trail crosses this ravine and goes down the easier slope on the other side.

Arrival at Shinumo Creek marks a return to "terra cognita," good water, and a sure route to Powell Saddle along the North Bass Trail.

[Due to our lost time, plans go off-trail into Modred are given up and we have almost 2 days to spend in Shinumo. We have time for evening entertainment (poetry and stories) and dayhikes. Weather moves in and it rains steadily through the night. The tent fly I use for a tarp is pitched low and tight in the mesquite and gives us good rain cover. Mike on one side, me on the other, George in the middle. George has only Gary's bag liner to sleep in and I'm a little concerned it might not be enough this cool night (the only one of the trip). One flap from my open bag and moving my sleeping bag foot over George's legs provides extra warmth.]

[The next day we do a couple of hikes, one over the ridge to the beach upriver and then down the stream to the mouth of Shinumo Creek. Gary shows us the secret passage through a hole in the boulders to go down the last section. We have to clear away the rocks to open it. This is the same hole first found by Elwyn Blake in 1923.]

[Then we exit Shinumo going up the bed of White Creek, up onto the Tonto bench and then pick our way up without finding much useful trail. Overnight at water by the falls in the Muav (Camp 11). Up the Redwall and then the ascent to Powell Saddle and the trailhead at Swamp Point.]

Water

The most frequent water source is the river. Good, reliable water sources other than the river are Tapeats Creek, Stone Creek, Switch-Level Canyon, Hundred-and-Twentyeight Mile Creek, Blacktail Creek, "Key Spring" (but bad water), and Shinumo Creek. Careful planning for water is critical and a minmum six-liter carrying capacity recommended.

Difficulty

This is very, very difficult off-trail hiking and routefinding. Requirements are excellent physical condition, some rockclimbing experience, good routefinding skill, some nerve and lots of shear willpower. A short rope is required to lower packs and to go down over short pitches and chockstones. A walking-stick is strongly recommended for stability in wading and on loose slopes. Times noted in GCLH-I are realistic only for someone familiar with the route or having exceptional routefinding skill. The key to ease-of-travel is keeping to the game trails. With care, most of the exposed or hazardous spots can be avoided and most of the route is simply rugged. However, if you lose your way and fail to correct your error, you could get into real trouble.

Appeal

Not many will try this one. The remoteness and sense of accomplishment is exhilarating. This is one of the better parts of the canyon for access along the river and variety of terrain. Nearly all the route is confined to the narrow corridor between the Redwall Cliffs and the River, but the Tapeats and Shinumo areas are rich in possibilities for other excursions.