North Rim Passage, Bright Angel to Saddle Mountain - continued

6 May -- Start out at 6:00. Weather is cool and travel is easy along broad, open Tonto slopes. Ahead looms a decision whether to go for Sheba saddle or contour around. The case for either seems equally balanced but not critical. In the end I decide that since Sheba is not that large, contouring is the more prudent choice. This proves a mistake.

We cross the drainage and I make a line for the dark shale shelf that has been helpful before. Alas, at the point where I would expect a game-trail there is none and the slope gets much worse. Finally, we are down to just a steep and loose slope above a small cliff formed by the ledge. There is almost nothing to stand on and nothing is stable. Gradually, each of us struggles across the two small ravines at the narrowest place as rocks clatter down over the cliff below and then the slope eases again. Terror comes for a moment when Ed is about to put his full weight on a rock embedded in the slope with no support under it. This is the worst and most dangerous section we have traveled. Perhaps it would have been better lower on the slope, but it didn't look that way. The saddle would most likely have been better, with the slope leading to the south end looking like the best approach. Maps show that Harvey Butchart has gone over both ends, but a deep crevice in the middle divides the north and south shoulders.

At the point south of Sheba are some excellent views of Red Canyon and the South Rim. Then we contour into the next drainage leading to Tabernacle saddle. As we pass below the slopes east of Sheba saddle we can see that access on this side is obvious and easy. We descend to bedrock at the 4040 contour at 9:30 and then follow the sandy bed northeast toward The Tabernacle arriving at the saddle and the spectacular view into Unkar at around 11:00. Time is allowed for photos, lunch, drying out, and scanning our route for the coming days.

The plan is to descend into the drainage below The Tabernacle, cross over to the slopes on the east side, and then go over directly into Unkar delta. We start down at 12:00 and the route is easy enough following the track established by river groups to climb The Tabernacle, as I did exactly a year ago. As we descend and I continue to look below us, I lose enthusiasm for my plan for a direct route to Unkar. It looks hot, unknown, and untramped. With our heavy packs even this trail is hard on the feet. A few broken sections of the ridge, merely amusing without a pack, require cautious maneuvering. We arrive beside the cool (but muddy) waters of the Colorado at Rattlesnake Camp, 1,600 feet lower, at 13:00.

After soaking feet in the river to recover from this brutal downhill stretch, we continue upriver along the bank at 13:30. At first, the tamarisk seems to block our way, but there is an opening to climb up onto the rock above the bank. The geologic beds here dip down upriver and so each ledge we follow disappears below river level. A few times we climb up to the next layer and then follow it down again. Finally, we come to one where we can’t find a way up to the next level. After trying and giving up at two spots, Ed takes the most obvious break and climbs it to the top. It's about 30 feet and doesn't look too difficult above the first move. I give it a try, but the first move seems to need more power than I want to commit to. Marshall goes up next. I get out some webbing to get packs up and then Darrell goes up as well. Danny and I do the packs from below while Ed handles them in the middle of the cliff and Marshall and Darrell do the top. When the packs are up, I start working on my motivation. But when I move into it I suddenly find the key. Instead of grabbing the crack on each side of the block, I put my left forearm into the outside crack and then just lever up. The move at the top is OK too. I'm glad we don't have to climb down this thing.

There are no more obstacles to the beach at the lower end of Unkar. We find the track that goes up behind the dunes and then follow a path up into the delta. This trail leads to the blockhouse ruin at the upper end of Unkar Delta, arriving at 16:00. Unkar Creek is flowing and at the next level below are some good flats for camp. Marshall goes in search of a beach camp, but there is none near the mouth of the creek. We spot a group of hikers on Unkar beach on the other side and whistle and wave to them. It turns out that the flats look like good camping because they have been swept this season by water going over the banks of the main channel and clearing things down to hardpack earth. Nevertheless, it does not seem like a risk to camp here this night. Rain is still a possibility so tarps are set, and this proves to be worthwhile later.

Looking to the north I can sight Angels Window on the North Rim peeking just above the cliff. Time and the convenient creek allow all of us the chance to wash up a little. We are still on schedule. Before dark, I take a walk up to the largest group of ruins. They are quite impressive and worth taking a little more time to look at in the morning.

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